Post 51 in an ongoing series describing the design and construction of a kabukimon, a type of Japanese gate. This is a project for the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.
Moving along steadily….
Installed the tenoning stop on my Martin T20 – before getting my hands dirty, I managed to borrow a magnetic base drill press from a local machine shop:
Drilling and tapping for 8mmx1.25:
That sucker ain’t going anywhere! Once I’ve calibrated it, I can attach the ruler to the flat surface on the bar.
Still waiting on delivery of the tenoning heads. It was supposed to be today, but winter weather has delayed things.
Next step was to complete the sliding dovetail mortises on the main posts:
These joints are the means to attach the flanking posts to the main posts.
A look at a couple:
Yeah, a little blurry, but you get the idea.
Then on to the kasagi – here they are highlighted in red so you can see their place in the scheme of things:
Stock was re-jointed and planed, and ended up a hair (0.02″) under dimension for width, but it is okay:
Stock was end-trimmed and the rod mortises completed, then it was time to infill the stress relief kerfs:
Despite the fact that these sticks are free of heart center, and despite the relief kerfs, there was still a minor amount of face checking. Go figure. I put this down the the lesser grade of wood, but it goes to show that the kerfing eliminates almost all, but not all, degrade from drying. Very much worth doing, but do not expect 100% success. Wood isn’t that predictable.
The face checking was rather minor and I decided to fill them with the PL300 adhesive. The adhesive color is pretty close to the wood color, is waterproof, and is less visually disruptive than any patch I can imagine to follow a jagged irregular check line. We’ll see how it looks after planing I guess.
The rod mortises are extra long, and need only the shachi sen trenches cut to reach completion:
I set that aside with an electric blanket to let the adhesive cure, and paid a visit to the machine shop. The new kiosk stainless shoes have been fabricated:
The base plates will attach to a piece of 3/8″ mild steel using stainless bolts, and the mild steel plates in turn will be welded to existing steel in the foundation. It will be stronger than the original set up, won’t corrode, is easily demounted, and raises the wood several inches out of the ground, all with only a very minor change to the visual appearance. I feel this design revision is a success. Cost was about $1800.00
Clean work by the metal fabricators – just what I wanted to see!
In another day or so the decorative bolt caps will also be completed, and then I can take the parts for powder coating. Another ‘tick’ off the list just a few days away….
All for today. I appreciate your visit as always and hope to see you here again. Post 52 is up next.