Before I continue on with the details of the leg tenon cut out, I wanted to put in a photo I omitted yesterday: a close up one of the mortises on the legs. This one is mostly cut out, just the left-side shoulder to trim flat and some clean up inside:
Back to the leg tenons – the next step was to cut the inside shoulders, using a medium-size ryoba nokogiri:
And then I define the outside face which is to be housed. The French refer to this part as the ‘barbe‘ (beard), and they are a little tricky to cut given the acute inner angle – again, a sharp rip blade on my ryoba noko was the ticket:
Here’s a close-up of two of the tenons, cut-out largely complete:
The next step was to individually fit each leg to the top:
Once each leg was fully in position, I could mark out the inside face of the tenon for the small slice that would be removed:
This allowed a pair of these tenons to nestle tightly together:
Then I turned my attention to the nuki. I don’t have detailed photos of the cut out sequence, but what I processed were haunched and shouldered tenons, slightly smaller than 1/2 height:
When cut-out was complete, then followed a round of planing on the nuki:
Then I planed the end-grain on the beam and chamfered the three arrises (leaving the top arris since the cap was yet to be fitted):
–> On to part V
G’Day Chris,I am thoroughly enjoying all of your posts – first thing I read each day. Is the ‘wetness’ I can see around the saw-horse joints camellia oil?RegardsDerek Cox
Derek,g’day! Pleased to read that you’re enjoying my posts.Yes, that is camellia oil around the joints you are seeing.~Chris
Ah, so the oil shows the contact spots and presumably is easily removed later?
This is a great site / blog to learn from, Chris, many thanks for your efforts.
Hi Gordon,
not quite: actually the oil – Camellia oil – is used to lubricate cuts. It evaporates away in a day or two. In the above pictures, the sticks are freshly cut out and the oil is visible.
~Chris